Moldova may be one of Europe’s least-visited nations, but for oenophiles, it is nothing short of a pilgrimage site. Tucked between Romania and Ukraine, this small country boasts the highest density of vineyards per capita on Earth and is home to some of the largest wine cellars in the world. A trip here is not just about tasting; it is about descending into limestone catacombs, driving through sun-drenched “Codru” forests, and experiencing hospitality that borders on the legendary. To help you navigate this vinous paradise, here are the top four winery tours you cannot miss.
1. Milestii Mici: The Underground Wine City
If you do only one wine tour in Moldova, make it Milestii Mici. Officially recognized by the Guinness World Records as the largest wine collection in the world, this is not merely a cellar; it is a subterranean city. Spanning over 200 kilometers of limestone tunnels of which only 55 kilometers are currently active the roads are so wide that you actually tour the facility by car (or electric buggy).
The experience is surreal. As you drive 40 meters below ground, the temperature holds steady at 12-14°C (54-57°F). You will pass street signs named after grape varieties (Cabernet Street, Pinot Avenue) and see over 1.5 million bottles resting in endless galleries. The crown jewel is the collection of nearly 30,000 bottles of “Easter Wine” harvested in 1969, a vintage you can actually taste. The standard tour concludes with a tasting in a royal hall, where you’ll sample their famous “Dnestrovskoe” and “Codru” reds. Given its popularity, reservations are mandatory weeks in advance, but the sheer scale of the operation makes it the undisputed number one.
2. Cricova: The Sparkling Royal Cellar
Often cited as Milestii Mici’s main rival, Cricova is more polished, more touristic, and historically grander. Located just 15 minutes north of Chi?in?u, this network of tunnels was transformed into a wine kingdom starting in 1952. The most famous visitor was Soviet leader Yuri Gagarin, who emerged from a 3-day underground binge famously remarking, “I feel as if I have been on the moon.”
Cricova specializes in sparkling wines made via the classic Méthode Champenoise, but their underground labyrinth is what steals the show. You will ride a small train past massive oak barrels and rows upon rows of bottles. The highlight is the “National Collection” oenothèque, which holds over 300,000 bottles dating back to 1902. The tour is an exercise in opulence; you will fi nish in a private tasting room deep in the rock, paired with a plate of Moldovan cheeses and meats. While slightly more expensive and crowded than others, Cricova’s impeccable English-speaking guides and historic provenance make it the perfect introduction for those short on time but big on luxury.
3. Purcari: The Bordeaux of the East
For those who want to see where the vines actually grow rather than just the storage tunnels, Purcari is essential. Located in the southeastern tip of Moldova, near the Dniester River and the Ukrainian border, Purcari is arguably the most prestigious wine region in the country. Established in 1827, this is the home of the legendary Negru de Purcari a robust red wine that was the favorite of the British Queen Victoria’s court.
Unlike the claustrophobic coolness of Milestii Mici, Purcari is an above-ground architectural beauty. The recently renovated château looks like a French castle dropped into the Moldovan steppe. The tour here focuses on terroir. You will walk through the “Royal Vineyard” (where every tsar from Nicholas I to Nicholas II tasted the produce) and explore a modern, high-tech winery that respects 19th-century techniques. The tasting experience is the most refi ned in the country, featuring a vertical tasting of Negru de Purcari alongside international varieties like Cabernet and Merlot. Because it is a 90-minute drive from Chi?in?u, this tour requires a full-day commitment, but the combination of history, landscape, and world-class reds is unbeatable.
4. Et Cetera: The Boutique Family Revolution
To understand modern Moldova the one moving away from Soviet bulk wine to artisanal quality you must visit Et Cetera. Located near the village of Temeleu?i, roughly an hour from the capital, this is a boutique, family-run winery led by the charismatic Italian-Moldovan winemaker, Igor Cociu. While the big cellars show you history, Et Cetera shows you passion.
The estate is small and intimate. Upon arrival, you are usually greeted directly by the winemaker or his family. The tour is hands-on: you will walk the organic vineyards, visit the modern gravity-fl ow winery, and descend into a small, perfectly curated barrel cellar. The focus is on “heroic viticulture” (steep slopes farmed by hand). Their wines are a revelation particularly the Feteasca Neagra and the unique Rara Neagra. The tour ends with a long, lazy lunch on a terrace overlooking the valley, where the food is homemade and the pours are endless. Et Cetera is the perfect antidote to the massive industrial tours, offering a soulful glimpse into the future of Moldovan wine.
Planning Your Journey
To cover these four, you need at least four days. Most tours require a designated driver or a pre-arranged taxi (costing €30-50 per day), as few have public transit access. For the underground giants (Milestii Mici and Cricova), book your spots one month in advance. For Purcari and Et Cetera, a week’s notice is usually sufficient. Moldova remains incredibly affordable: expect to pay between €15 to €40 per person for a premium tour that includes 5-8 tastings and a snack. Whether you are exploring the limestone depths or the rolling southern hills, Moldova promises not just a sip, but a story. Noroc!
Enjoy your wine tasting tours in Moldova.
